Top 10 Questions to Ask a Breeder Before Buying a Dog
1. Have the parents been shown? What type of shows? What titles have they earned (conformation, obedience, agility, field)? Are there pictures of the sire if he is not on the premises?
2. What is the temperament of the dam? Meet and interact with the dam. If she is shy and nervous or, worse, aggressive around people, her offspring have a greater chance of being the same way. Watch how the dam and puppies interact.
3. If other dogs are on the premises, are they friendly and outgoing or kept penned up out back because of aggression and bad behavior?
4. Which clearances do the parents and grandparents have? What about previous litters from these or related dogs? Necessary clearances vary between breeds, discuss them with your veterinarian before choosing a breed and breeder.
5. Have the dewclaws been removed? If not, why not? Remember, some breeds are required to have them to show.
6. What was the reason(s) for breeding this litter? Preferable for the breeder to want to improve the breed and keep one of the puppies for showing/hunting.
7. Have the puppies received a health exam from the veterinarian or when will they? Any health problems found? What type of treatment is needed for any health problems?
8. What type of guarantees do you have for the litter? If the hips are guaranteed, does it mean you get your money back but the breeder gets the puppy back (some medical conditions do not show up for 2 years)? Do you get another puppy from a future litter and how will you know that puppy will have any better hips?
9. What is the price? Show quality (conformation) puppies may be higher priced than the pet quality puppies. Who determined which are show quality?
10. Have the puppies been temperament tested? Has their desire to retrieve been tested? What were the results for the litter?
With few exceptions, no puppy should be seen, bought, and taken home on the same visit. The breeder and the prospective owner need time to judge each other. This may be done over the phone but the questions need to be asked to ensure a safe, loving home for each puppy. Impulse buyers rarely have thought through what a puppy needs over the next 12-15 years. People need to be aware of the time, energy, and expense bringing a living animal into a home requires.
Brent Goodman
http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/top-10-questions-to-ask-a-breeder-before-buying-a-dog-81400.html
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What are some questions to ask a breeder before buying a purebred dog?
We have two rescue dogs and we love them. We want a purebred for agility and show. We are going to get an Aussie Shepherd. What questions should we ask the breeder?
Is there any formality with deposits, refunds, paperwork….I’ve never bought a dog before?
I know i have to ask about eyes and hips, but i know im missing something. I just have no idea how this works.
10 points!!!!
Try your local animal shelter!!! Don’t support Breeders!!!
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Hip scores!
Oh, you already mentioned that…. My poor little doggy had hip problems.
Previous litters, and the health of the pups.
Some take a deposit, and all should have paperwork and offer to take the dog back if any problems.
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Make sure you ask to see both parents, both parents registry papers, both parents award papers, both parents certification papers, both parents listing papers. Ask to see the welfare of other offspring from the particular pairing, if there are none, ask to see offspring from each of the dogs.
In Australian Shepherds ESPECIALLY, make sure they’ve been cleared for ears, hips, eyes, and elbows.
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Ask if there if its apart of any aussie pedigree regs.-kennel clubs.
any papers or pedigree mybe like family lines
If a puppy has it pats its vacc/first jags/checked by vet.
Ask if its possible to see its mum or dad.
Ask what temperment or any illness the aussies family bloodline had.
You will prob more nereer the time and ask if there any notes the breed er has.
Also try and resaerch that breeder to see of its porper breeder-best get it from a phone book or that and not internet.
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has dogs
if it’s from a breeder.. i highly doubt it’s purebreed.
most breeders mix and match and most breed under terrible conditions and mix breeds that have already been mixed and have health issues later in life IF not when they’re born.
i never trusted breeders… you watch out getting animals from breeders.
also before you do all of this.. again? check out the breeder through the city/county and state and see if this breeder has any information or has been sited.
most have been and most still breed though their licenses and permits have been revoked by the city/county.
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I would ask a breeder for information on her dogs.. pedigrees, show/working titles or points, health clearances (OFA, CERF, BAER, PennHip, Optigen), a copy of the guarantee/contract.. and ask her information in general about the breed, just to feel the breeder out and see if she is knowledgeable and helpful.
Most breeders require a non-refundable deposit on the pup to hold it… each breeder will have their own rules on refunds tho.. most will not refund any money…If the pup dies, or is found to have a congenital illness, within the terms of the contract, ussually a pup of equal value would be offered. Most breeders also will not pay any vet bills.
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Ask for health guarantee shot records, and registration papers. Ask about temperament, and how well the pup learns for them. All puppies are like humans and are different on these things personality, and intelligence.
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http://www.asca.org/Finding+an+Aussie/Finding+a+Breeder – from their national breed club has a range of things to help you know what to ask
A good breeder will have a contract outlining refunds/replacements, health guarantees, etc. Deposits are usually 100-500 depending on the breeder(sometimes more for show quality) and are most often nonrefundable with exception for death of the pup.
What genetic screening is done?
Will they take the animal back at any point in its life if you can no longer keep it?
Two year hip guarantee?
AKC or UKC registered?
Co-ownership of the dog until it has done certain things show wise.(number of shows or CHs)
Possible refund of a portion of the pet price if the dog wins a number of titles(not every breeder does this)
Always ask to see paperwork in regards to CHs pedigrees, health testing etc and verify the information found on them.
Serious Lee:
"if it’s from a breeder.. i highly doubt it’s purebreed." Are you serious? No LEGIT breeder mixed breeds. Educate yourself
"most breeders mix and match and most breed under terrible conditions and mix breeds that have already been mixed and have health issues later in life IF not when they’re born." No only BYBs, puppymills and idiot dog owners do again EDUCATE yourself
"i never trusted breeders… you watch out getting animals from breeders." If there were no breeders there would be no animals.
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ask can u see a mother (u should be able to see that)
dont expect to see the father coz good breeders breed females with males more far away, NOT from their own nest (to prevent possibilites of two dog being related)
check the puppys, and see which one is cheerful, happy, and playful,that is the natural way puppys should act
see the condition of the place
ask about vaccines, and vet cat for each puppy as a prow they had their shots
where puppys live :its the best they live inside, in that case, they can better socialize
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So to avoid these pitfalls and choose a good breeder,
look for one who at a minimum:
Keeps dogs in the home as part of the family—not outside
in kennel runs
Has dogs who appear happy and healthy, are excited
to meet new people, and don’t shy away from visitors
Shows you where the dogs spend most of their time—
in a clean, well maintained area
Encourages you to spend time with the puppy’s parents—
at a minimum, the pup’s mother—when you visit
Only breeds one or two types of dogs and is
knowledgeable about what are called “breed standards”
(the desired characteristics of the breed, such as size,
proportion, coat, color, and temperament)
Has a strong relationship with a local veterinarian and
shows you records of veterinary visits for the puppies
and explains the puppies’ medical history and what
vaccinations your new puppy will need
Explains in detail the potential genetic problems
inherent in the breed (every breed has specific genetic
predispositions) and provides documentation—through
organizations such as the Orthopedic Foundation for
Animals (OFA)—that the puppy’s parents and grandparents
have been tested to ensure that they are free of these
genetic problems
Offers guidance for caring for and training your puppy and
is available for assistance after you take your puppy home
Provides references from other families who have
purchased puppies
Feeds high quality “premium” brand pet food
Doesn’t always have puppies available but rather will keep
a list of interested people for the next available litter
Is actively involved with local, state, and national clubs that
specialize in the specific breed; good breeders may also
compete the dogs in conformation trials (which judge how
closely dogs match their “breed standard”), obedience trials
(which judge how well dogs perform specific sets of
tasks on command), or tracking and agility trials
Encourages multiple visits and wants your entire family
to meet the puppy
Provides you with a written contract and health guarantee
and allows plenty of time for you to read it thoroughly;
the breeder should not require that you use a specific veterinarian
In addition to those criteria, you’ll want a breeder who
requires some things of you, too. The breeder should
require you to:
Explain why you want a dog
Explain who in your family will be responsible for the pup’s
daily care, who will attend training classes, where the
dog will spend most of his or her time, and what
“rules” have been decided upon for the puppy—for
example, whether or not the dog will be allowed on furniture
Provide a veterinary reference
Provide proof from your landlord or condominium board
(if you rent or live in a condominium complex) that you
are allowed to have a dog
Sign a contract that you will spay or neuter the dog
unless you will be actively involved in showing him
or her (which applies to show-quality dogs only)
Sign a contract stating that you will return the dog
to the breeder should you be unable to keep the
dog at any point in the dog’s life
If the breeder you’re working with doesn’t meet all of
these minimum criteria, The Humane Society of the
United States advises you to walk away. Remember,
your dog will likely live 10 to 20 years, so it’s well worth
investing some time now to be sure you’re working with
a reputable breeder who breeds healthy, happy dogs.
You can find reputable breeders by asking for referrals
from your veterinarian or from trusted friends, contacting
local breed clubs, or visiting dog shows.
Remember, a reputable breeder will never sell dogs through a pet store or in any other way that doesn’t allow interaction
with buyers to ensure that the puppies are a good
match for the families and that the buyers will provide
responsible lifelong homes.
Please don’t ever buy a dog without personally visiting
where he or she was born and raised. Take the time
now to find the right breeder and you’ll be thanking
yourself for the rest of your dog’s life.
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Lots to ask:
What are the parents’ titles?
How often does the breeder breed a particular dog? It better not be more than every couple of years.
Does she breed other dogs/breeds? If so, how many? No responsible person breeds more than a couple of litters a year (total from all dogs owned) from more than three or four dogs. Ideally, she only breeds one or two breeds.
What does she expect as far as follow up? A good breeder will want updates from you.
Will she take the pup back for any reason at any time? A good breeder will.
Does she require a spay/neuter contract for pet quality dogs? Again, a good breeder will.
She should be asking lots of questions about you, as well.
You should be able to meet the parents (or at least the mom) and see where the pups are being raised.
Michele Lowell’s book Your Purebred Puppy has an excellent chapter on finding a breeder. It has a "script" for contacting breeders and what you should then ask or do depending on the various answers you may hear. I think you would find it very helpful.
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Ask about any health conditions in the parents. If both are with the breeder ask to take a look at them to see if you can see anything wrong with stance, teeth, eyes, etc. Most reputable breeders out there will offer a refund and take the dog back if something is wrong. Make sure you get papers from them, as it is much harder to get later. I gave the full amount when I picked up my corgi, but some breeders will do a deposit early on in the pup’s life to keep it "on hold" until you pick it up at eight or ten weeks (not any sooner!!). I just had to sign a few papers, and Sophie was all mine. Good luck, and hope you enjoys your new puppy. Oh and congrats on rescuing dogs as well, I have both a purebred and a rescue dog.
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Yeah I agree with what Nekkid Bootie said
How about try Australian Shepherd Rescue and Placement Helpline
http://www.aussierescue.org/AdoptFromARPH/AvailableAussies.aspx
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Ask about all known health problems, both genetic and otherwise. The breeder should be honest with you and not try to hold anything back. They should do genetic testing for things like Hip Dysplasia, heart, eyes and elbows, as well as problems common in the breed. You should be able to look at the results.
The dog should be registered with a major kennel club. The AKC in America, CKC in Canada. In Canada, they have to have the puppies registered with the CKC, and cannot charge extra for registration. Bring involved in breed clubs is a plus. National and local clubs are best.
They should actively show or work the dogs. With Aussies, you may be able to get a dog form a working line who is bred to work with livestock, you can also get a show line dog for showing. It depends on what you are looking for. The parents of the puppies should have their championship if used for showing.
Ask what they feed and why they feed it. A breeder who feeds the cheapest thing they can probably doesn’t care as much as someone who feeds a homemade diet. Some breeders are sponsored by a pet food company, but don’t feed the food.
Ask about vet care, both for the puppies and adults. If they just vaccinate the puppies and not adults, there may be reason for concern. Ask for a copy of vet records and see if you can talk to the vet they use.
The contract is a big indication of a good breeder. They should offer a life time return of the puppy if you can no longer keep it. The health guarantee may vary, but it should cover genetic diseases and some illness for a certain period. There should be a limit on breeding with possible spay/neuter. As you are looking for a show dog, you will still probably get a non-breeding contract, but it can be changed at a later date.
Ask for references form people who have bought from them before. Call people form different litters. Ask about the breeder and the dog. If there is someone near you, ask to see the dog and to talk in person.
I would be wary of just giving a deposit before talking to the breeder or before a breeding is planed. Wait as long as you can, ideally after a litter is born so you can look at the puppies. Talk to a few breeders before giving a deposit. That way, you can pick the breeder that is right for you.
Refunds can vary from breeder to breeder. They should offer a refund as part of the contract, but only for certain things. A deposit is usually non-refundable if you pull out, if they decide that they cannot or will not give you a puppy there should be a refund.
I don’t have experience with paperwork, but it should all be filled out before you take the puppy home. This includes the registration, contract and any other paperwork.
When at all possible, visit the breeder before picking up the puppy. Ask to see the whole property, not just where the puppies are. Make sure you see the parents (or at least the mother). If the place is dirty or there are too many dogs, it is best to just leave.
Trust your instincts when selecting a breeder. If it doesn’t seem right, it probably isn’t. You want the best possible puppy, so don’t be afraid to say No and leave.
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